A fish is so much more than just two fillets.
That’s the motto and the heart and sole (mind the pun) of Sydney’s celebrated three-star, or three-hatted, fine dining institution, Saint Peter, led by super chef Josh Niland.
Traditionally, only around 50% of a fish is used in dishes at restaurants, at Saint Peter the aim is to use the whole fish, or at least 90% of it. Waste not, want not, reimagined with serious creativity.
Chatting to the charming team at the restaurant, we thought we’d throw a few curve balls on this motto - what about the bones? Well, they are ground down and add texture to the clay for the restaurant’s handmade plates. The eyes? They add gelatine to one of the petits fours (otherwise known as 'Sweets of the Sea' here) – surprisingly chocolatey and not fishy at all.
Modestly described as ‘an Australian fish eatery’, the restaurant itself is intimate, understated, effortlessly cool and super welcoming – the open kitchen hums with calm, its Head Chef at the pass. It may be one of the best restaurants in the world, but it’s typically Aussie in its charm - it’s relaxed and unpretentious (but yes, I would suggest dressing up just a little, it is a three star after all).
We had booked lunch and decided to share the dishes so we could taste everything on the three course menu - after a few oysters, naturally. Each plate was a visual showstopper, with flavours that both surprised and warmed our cockles (sorry), ranging from a coal kissed Bonito Saddle and line caught John Dory, to a charcoal Coral Trout to a hand line caught wild Barramundi chop… the sauces for each so delicate, so balanced and I’d like to say so comforting, but this was all very far away from my usual comfort food and all the better for it.
Of course, my line of sight went for the wine list. With a rare nod to NSW producers, it was refreshing to see so many wines from my favourite wine region, Orange on the list, alongside unusual varieties from across the country. Sam the Somm guided us through the list and gave us a fabulous recommendation to go with the range of seafood we were about to experience – a 2023 Entropy ‘Willow Grove’ Savagnin from Gippsland, Victoria - pithy lemon and green apple on the nose, with a hint of salty salinity on its super textured palate. And a special treat to enjoy with our desert – a glass of Bellebonne Bis Non-Vintage Rosé from Tasmania – layered with fresh bright strawberry, Turkish delight and hints of rose finishing with a creamy biscuity finish. Both absolute winners.
Most come here to experience one of Australia’s leading fine dining establishment but soon realise this is more than a trophy restaurant. It’s the seamless harmony of its many parts that make it so unique – the intuitive service is sublime, the food delicately moreish, the wine list one that recognises the importance of what grows together goes together – and it is this ethical balance of acknowledging the importance of sustainability across the supply chain and in the ingredients themselves that makes this restaurant unique, and truly remarkable.
