Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc all have something in common....

They are the world’s most popular grapes, creating the most consumed wines today.

Most of us are very familiar with this famous five.  Bar a few exceptions, they are consistently predictable and branded that way - we know what to expect, their names are easy to remember, and that’s part of their success.

Ask any avid wine drinker, and they can probably recall around 20 to 30 grape varieties, yet there are over 6,000 ‘cultivated’ grape varieties of Vitis Vinifera grown across the world. 

Personally, I’ve always been curious about lesser known varieties, most tend to be indigenous to a region, possessing a profile distinct to that terroir and local vinification processes, even if I can’t always pronounce their names.    

As we enter an age of more considered consumption of wine, modern wine drinkers are showing interest in these varieties too. 

OK, this may get me blacklisted from a few trade tastings, but I believe these less common grapes tend to make more interesting wines. Producers working with them have to work twice as hard to be half as recognised. And being the underdog is where magic usually happens.

No disrespect to the more commonly known varietals, I’m a Charddy girl all day long, but the famous five can sometimes feel a little homogenous rather than representative of a place, yes they are global travellers that can fit in pretty much anywhere, but, (in my very humble opinion), this has meant they’ve somewhat lost sight of their place of origin and their distinct identity and character. 

Seeking out lesser known grape varieties – which in turn create wines that you never knew you needed in your fridge or glass - I’m kicking this series off with a little beauty I discovered on a recent trip to Alicante… Merseguera.

Where are we?

DO Alicante is found south of Valencia on the southeast coast of Spain, bordering the more inland regions to its west – DO Jumilla and DO Yecla.  Combining a dry, warm Mediterranean climate influenced by the sea and an inland mountain range, with limestone, sandy, stony soils to produce low yielding vines, this DO is known mainly for its reds led by Monastrell (Mourvèdre). Traditionally the region is famous for Fondillón, a naturally sweet, oxidative, solera aged wine made from the same grape.

Fun fact:  Wines from Alicante not only featured in Alexandre Dumas' The Count of Montecristo, but Fondillón is also said to be the wine of choice of King Louis XIV during his final days in 1715.

The Lesser known Grape - Merseguera

Merseguera is a white grape indigenous to the Valencia and Andalucia region.  Only around 2,000 ha of vines exist (or around 0.2% of all land under vine in Spain), yet its late ripening, high yielding and drought resistant character could be just the ticket for a warming planet.

On research, Merseguera doesn’t seem to have that great a reputation (considered ‘lacklustre’ and mainly grown for its tolerance for hot, dry conditions).  It’s usually blended with other grapes to add fresh acidity and herbal notes, and for its capacity to reach phenolic ripeness without tipping the alcohol scales, however some modern producers are experimenting with single varietal wines, skin contact lees ageing and the use of oak.