Being a wine drinker, I sometimes prefer cocktails.

Nearly six years ago, I fell into the world of wine and by studying, analysing and tasting bottles of multiple styles, from all corners of the planet, many made from varietals I’d never heard of... I experienced one massive change in how I drank wine.

I started to drink less.

Being an Aussie who grew up on a diet of boxed wines labelled Savvy B which tasted of watered-down grape juice, I liked my vino served without any fanfare, fuss or finesse.

Fast forward to today, I happily say I am a wine snob – not in having to pay for expensive wines or iconic brands that look better on the shelf than in the glass – I have become, as the cool kids say - a consciously curious wine drinker* with an appreciation for the story behind the bottle as much as what’s in the glass, and a gratitude for the blood, sweat and tears that go into making that bottle of wine, especially those that are filled with intrigue that linger long after the last sip.

But what if the wine smells or tastes weird?

Before 2000, I would never have considered sending wine back, or tipping a bottle down the sink, but since then I have done both, a few times, even preferring a cocktail if the wine is not on point.

Some wines are destined for the glass, some for cooking, and luckily only a very few, the sink. I’m not afraid to make that call now, quietly, without naming the producer or any fanfare over why – wine is subjective after all, and my taste, whether it originated from a cheap wine box covered in sand on Bondi beach, has now grown up, along with my standards, apparently.

It’s an overused motto, but for me Quality over Quantity is what I live for now.

The most common reason for returning a bottle, or pouring it down the sink if you feel so inclined, is a fault with the wine. Grapes, grape juice and the subsequent wine are all vulnerable, sensitive things, especially the more organic or minimal intervention they are. Some of the most common faults occur in the vineyard, in the winery, or during transportation of the wine, others are due to poor storage conditions, or serving the wine at an incorrect temperature.

There are a number of noteworthy faults that make wine pretty much undrinkable – having said that, a few faults are actually pretty cool and add a certain je ne sais quoi to a wine and are not considered a fault (unless they’re at the more severe end of the spectrum). Yes, wine is constantly and mysteriously subjective and all the better for it!

But as well-made wine is not cheap these days, the key is to enjoy it when it’s fresh and vibrant. Faults tend to make wine taste the opposite. So before you send that wine back, or pour it out, here are a few faults to look out for.

PS: Most sommeliers and independent wine shops will happily exchange wines that are faulty, just don’t drink most of the bottle and expect another in return.


Corked wine

Less common than a few decades ago, due to better winery hygiene, better cork production and more alternative closures - when a wine is ‘corked,’ it’s been affected by cork taint – created by a chemical with a rather long name, easier remembered as TCA.

The result is an unpleasant, musty aroma of damp cardboard, wet newspaper, creating a dull, flat wine on the palate.

Send this wine back.


Oxidation

Some wine drinkers like their wines slightly oxidated, so if you’re one of those, (hello sherry and Vin Jaune lovers) skip to the next fault.

Basically, when a wine has been exposed to too much oxygen (usually during the fermentation process or when a bottle has been left open for too long), the wine starts to go off – like an apple goes brown when left out half eaten, resulting in aromas and flavours of bruised apples, nuts and honey, and a palate that is flat and dull, with the wine sometimes showing a slight brown hue.

Hot, dry wine regions like Priorat, Mendoza or La Mancha can see higher incidents of oxidation after bottling, mainly due to high temperatures during storage, whilst barrel ageing can increase oxidation, with new oak increasing it more so than old.

If oxidation was intended by the winemaker it’s questionable whether you can send an oxidated wine back.


Reduction

The opposite of oxidation, when the wine has not been exposed to much, if any, oxygen, creating volatile sulphur compounds.

The resulting aromas range from low levels of smoke, or struck match to boiled cabbage – which some people like – and which usually dissipate upon decanting. But at more severe levels, aromas can include rotten eggs, skunk and dirty drains, which no level of decanting can remove!

Wines that are more prone to reduction include Sauvignon Blanc and cool climate Chardonnays which can emit sulphur notes on opening, which usually dissipate after a few minutes in the glass.

As mentioned, decanting can remove unwanted reduction aromas, however if it is more on the rotten eggs end of the tasting note scale, send this wine back.

Volatile Acidity

Volatile acidity (VA) results in wine smelling like vinegar or nail polish remover, with a sour tang on the palate. Not a favourite tasting note. However, some VA notes can dissipate on decanting, so it depends if the VA was intentional or not in terms of sending it back.

Certain wine regions are more prone to VA, such as maritime areas like Bordeaux or even England, where humid conditions are a beacon for Botrytis and acetic acid, increasing the potential of VA if the grape must sits around too long in the winery before fermentation, and small amounts of VA are acceptable in some reds, for example Rioja or Amarone.

Wine with naturally higher acidity can slow bacterial issues (which is a plus for cool climate wine regions, and those preferable cool, dry harvests). However, with warming vintages, natural increases in sugar and alcohol microbial growth can also increase VA.

Questionable whether you can send a wine with slight VA back, some wine lovers say it lifts the vibrancy of a wine and makes it more complex (but if the VA is very strong and does not disappear with decanting, send it back).


Heat

Whether from poor transportation or storage, any wine left for long periods in the sun or heat can get damaged. The result is a loss of the fresh, fruit profile of the wine, making it taste stale and ‘dead’ on the palate.

Sadly it’s questionable on whether you can send this wine back.


Bottle shock

This has nothing to do with the movie with the same name. This fault is usually down to how the wine is handled during bottled or transportation.

Also known as travel shock, this tends to be a temporary fault that affects the wine physiologically, literally shaking those sensitive aromatic compounds around  – the wine becomes slightly dull, losing its fruit and showing more acidic, metallic or ‘flabby’ notes.

This is a phase that usually passes, so it really depends on how quickly you serve a wine after bottling or a long transportation period. Cue very young wines straight off harvest and Australian/ New Zealand wines straight off the boat.

If you’re served a dull, lacklustre wine, this could be one reason, but it’s questionable whether you can send it back.

Brettanomyces

Obviously named after my brother,  ‘Brett’ is a yeast that can dimmish the fruity flavours of a wine and add aromas that range from clove and leather, to more medicinal, band-aids, sweaty and farmyard notes.

Usually down to poor cellar hygiene or low use of sulphur, Brett is more commonly found in red wines – and some wine lovers are also Brett lovers, saying it adds complexity to the wine.

Low level amounts of Brett can be found and accepted in reds such as Rhône Syrah or aged Rioja, whilst Pinot Noir’s thin skins and low tannin structure are perfect for microbial instability, making it another culprit.

Brett is not unsafe, and for some it’s a bonus, so could be questionable as to whether you can send a wine with this fault back. I’ve read that serving a red wine with Brett slightly chilled helps to subdue the fault notes.
 

*story inspired by my sister who is in AA and still cannot believe that I pass on wine/ send it back / pour it down the sink when I don’t like it.